Cala en Baster: a hidden corner in the north of Formentera

Cala en Baster is a small rocky cove on Formentera’s north coast, near Sant Ferran de ses Roques. It has no sand and no facilities, but it does have crystal-clear water, sandstone walls sculpted by the wind and one of the most unusual sights on the island: the boat shelters that fishermen dug out of the rock by hand.

Where is Cala en Baster?

It lies on the Tramuntana (north) coast of the island, less than 2 km from the church in Sant Ferran. Migjorn beach is about 2.3 km away and the Punta Prima tower about 2.4 km. It is a fishermen’s refuge surrounded by tall walls of limestone and marès, a local sandstone that the wind has carved into fanciful shapes.

How to get to Cala en Baster

On foot or by bike

The easiest way is the Sant Ferran – Cala en Baster – Migjorn green route (4.2 km, easy): it heads north from Sant Ferran, reaches the cove and then crosses the island along farm tracks to Migjorn beach. It’s a short walk from the village to the cove; the full route takes about 60 minutes on foot or 20 by bike.

By boat

For a different and memorable way to arrive, boat hire in Formentera lets you see this spot from the sea and explore other coves on the north coast at your own pace. If you anchor, always do so on sand: in the Balearic Islands it is forbidden to anchor on posidonia seagrass. And remember that with the Licencia de Navegación (Spain’s basic boating licence) you can only sail during daylight hours.

When to visit Cala en Baster

Spring and autumn bring milder weather and fewer people, although the cove is peaceful in summer too. The most important factor is the wind: it’s best avoided when the levante (easterly wind) is blowing, so check the forecast before you go.

Things to do at Cala en Baster

• Take a leisurely swim: its rock platforms and clear water are perfect for a quiet dip.
• Go snorkelling: the rocky seabed is ideal for a look around with a mask and snorkel.
• See the boathouses carved into the rock: fishermen hand-carved caves in the marès to store their boats, a unique example of the island’s seafaring heritage.
• Take photos: the height of the walls and the shapes of the rock make for great pictures.

Walking routes near Cala en Baster

The Sant Ferran – Cala en Baster – Migjorn green route itself is the best walk: after the cove, it crosses farmland with fig trees propped up on wooden supports (estalons), small flocks of sheep and vegetable plots divided by dry-stone walls. From Sant Ferran you can link up with the Sant Francesc – Sant Ferran (1.8 km) and Es Pujols – Es Ca Marí (5.1 km) routes.

Where to eat near Cala en Baster

There are no facilities at the cove, so the easiest option is to eat in Sant Ferran, where the legendary Fonda Pepe, the meeting point of the 1970s hippie scene, is still open. If you do the full route to Migjorn, at the end you’ll find the Blue Bar, another island classic, open from March to November.

Tips for a sustainable visit

• Wear suitable footwear: the way down to the water is over rock.
• Bring water and sun protection: there is no shade and there are no facilities.
• Take your rubbish with you and respect the plants and wildlife.
• Respect the boathouses: they are part of the island’s heritage.
• Come on foot, by bike or by public transport if you can: it’s the most respectful way to visit such a fragile place.